What’s the difference between ‘bucket list’ and a ‘lifelong dream’? Bucket list is something that gets spilled over in every conversation while a lifelong dream keeps you up at night. When a lifelong dream starts drifting further and further apart, you wouldn’t even mind plotting nefarious plans to make it a reality. A lifelong dream is something that you hold very close to your heart, so close that sometimes it might turn into a dagger and pierce deep. So when an invitation from Royal Enfield for the 2022 Astral Ride Spiti popped up in my inbox, my animal instincts came alive and I called dibs on it. After receiving a go ahead from Ramesh sir, I thought I would sleep like a sloth that night but what happened was stark opposite. I lay wide awake on my bed, with my eyes popped wide open yet dreaming of riding through that mystical land.
On day 1, we found ourselves in Shimla which was supposed to be the starting point of this epic voyage. The mist-trodden Himalayas set the perfect tone for the adventurous days that lay ahead. We were handed over the keys to the weapon at our disposal – the Royal Enfield Himalayan. The next morning, we geared up to leave for Kalpa which was our destination for day 2. As we meandered through the lush green valleys, a smooth piece of black top lay ahead. Encountering tarmac as smooth as an Italian ballerina’s moves came as a surprise. Ideally, we should have flirted with the tarmac, taking it nice and slow while basking in the glory of the mountains but what happened was the exact opposite. All the 25 ponies were spared loose and a raucous love affair was in place as a streak of Himalayans belted down. Before we could exit the state of euphoria, Kalpa appeared on the signboard.
Kalpa is renowned to be the gateway to the Spiti valley and we could see why. Verdant mountains envelop this quaint little town and when the skies are clear, one can even see glorious snow-capped mountains standing tall, far far away. Day 3 was when we entered the land of Gods – Spiti Valley as we marched towards Kaza. The turbulent Spiti river kept us company, reminding us that one tiny mistake could result in getting engulfed in its ferocity. ‘Barren’ is the best word that describes the vistas that were unfolding in front of our eyes. Smooth tarmac disappeared and made way for unpaved roads, something which made the Himalayan smirk. It wanted to play since it was its home turf and since we were riding through the land renowned for hospitality, we obliged. What happened later was sheer ignorance of the fact there wasn’t any road beneath us, because we were flying over the ruts and boulders. Right before we reached Kaza, dark clouds took over the skies and the gloomy dusk transformed the Spiti valley into a dystopian world.
Kaza was our base for the next 4 days and the idea was to go out every night and try to capture the magnificent milky way galaxy with our humble lenses. Royal Enfield doesn’t just sell motorcycles in the modern era, they’re trying to sell a lifestyle and rides like Astral rides are playing the role of flagbearers. The whole concept behind the formulation of Astral ride is to let people know that motorcycles can be the perfect tool to haul your derriere to places unimaginable and capture the raw beauty that unfolds when the nocturnal beings take over the world. Unfortunately, the rain gods had their own plans as they sent their army of clouds to defeat a determined bunch of astral photographers.
The time and efforts lost during the nights, compelled us to make the most out of our days. None of us wanted to waste our days away, snuggling in our comfy beds while the Spiti valley called out to the wanderers in us. Exploration became a regime for the days that we were in Kaza. Landmarks like the Chicham bridge, Key Monastery, Kibber, Hikkim and Comic were some of the places which we marked with our tyre treads. Not to forget the impromptu detours that we took for some mad photo ops!
Navaneeth Unnikrishnan, a renowned Astral photographer was called for the duty of making us learn the basics of astral photography. The days were reserved for trodding down the streets of Kaza, scaling the key attractions of the Spiti valley and photography workshops. While the nights were reserved for midnight excursions to capture the night skies, intoxicant-induced banters and tales related to the paranormal. Just the night before we had to commence our parade towards Manali, the skies cleared up a bit. On a big slab of stone, we placed out sleep as a sacrificial offering to the rain gods and at last, they seemed pleased. Just the night before, our motive was accomplished.
Spiti is a place meant for the strong-willed and artists with love towards the nature. No one else. If these surreal and majestic mountains don’t bind you to jot down a piece of poetry while the cold breeze freezes your every bone, the whole purpose is lost. These mountains present themselves as an opportunity to break from the shackles of worldly pains and pleasures. The millennial phrase ‘The mountains are calling’ holds no meaning here because you get to realize they’re simply too majestic to indulge in these whims and fancies. When you’re in the Himalayas, be humble and be generous for the other-worldly spectacles.
With heavy hearts and dusty riding gears, we were bidding the hardest goodbyes of our lives. More than a barren desert amidst the Himalayas, we witnessed Kaza turning into a breathing, living place. To most of us, this desolate land was more vibrant and lively than the streets of Marrakesh. The Spiti valley became our Shangri-La but it was now time to buckle up because what lay ahead, was the daunting task to reach Manali the same day.
Kaza to Manali might be a measly 200 kilometre ride but don’t let these cardinal numbers fool you because more than half of this route is pretty much non-existent. It was a smooth ride at first, with 50 kilometres of paved tarmac. It felt like the honeymoon period of a relationship before the bumpy ride begins. And right before we scaled Kunzum pass, the roads evaporated in thin air. I used to believe that the Royal Enfield Himalayan was a remedial child but on this stretch, it proved itself to be a rather gifted one. We stood on our pegs, gave the Himalayan some beans and it did the job with the finesse of an ancient Indian sculptor. Not to forget, with every turn there was a near-sensory overload because the Himalayas were unleashing their beauty in full force. Something which was in tandem with the Spiti river which was flowing with such ferocity it made our heads bow down in respect. The isolation from humans has certainly contributed in maintaining the raw beauty of the Spiti valley and I’m pretty sure if the roads become paved in near future, it would be a warcry of utter destruction for the nature.
Koksar is when the tarmac appeared again and all of us let out deep sighs. We felt blessed to encounter smooth roads again but at the same time, we also knew that it was the start of our march towards civilization. Brotherhood, clear and starry night skies and surreal landscapes that can even make a grown man cry ( I did! ), were the flavours of the Royal Enfield Astral Ride Spiti. When the ride officially ended in Chandigarh, we couldn’t help but fathom the epicness that unfolded in the last 7 days or so. Even the atheists amongst us must have thanked the lord almighty to bless us with this glorious experience. If you’re into astral photography and a sucker for riding in the Himalayas, I would suggest – rob a bank or steal money from a 60-year-old lady, but be a part of RE’s Astral ride.
